We head to Dareda on the 6am bus, thankfully it is a normal size bus and relatively not too crowded. A short 90 minute trip and we arrive in Dareda, a small village halfway between Babati and Katush. We head to the local Chai shop before we make the 45 minute trek to the Marceli home.
It is a cold morning and the chai shop is jammed with men lined up neatly sipping steaming cups of chai watching the replay of the World Cup. It is buzzy and you immediately know this is where the village gathers before starting a days work. The chai served with steamed milk and sugar is steaming and delicious. It is made in large vats in the back over an open fire and accompanied with a crispy chapatti made right there. The chapatti men get excited when I peak in to the kitchen and proudly show me the process of rolling, cutting and cooking. Chai and chapatti’s don’t get better than this.
Martin, Mr. Marceli’s 4th son, escorts up to their home. We walk through small villages in the most picturesque mountain location, the area is green and lush, with the mist lifting over the mountain as the sun rises, with farmers working their fields by hand. We arrive at their home, a large house (to accommodate 11 children), it is simple with many bedrooms, a large kitchen outside. Their water is gathered through one tap in the backyard and last year they just put in a petrol generator to have minimal electricity on special occasions – one of which is to ensure the TV is working for the world cup! As the only home to have electricity in the village, they open their home to their neighbors making their sitting area welcome for all to come watch. They are the epicenter of the village where most children and neighbors gather to chat, play and to dance.
We head off to see the coffee plantation, which is down the road. Opening 80 years ago, they have been successful at harvesting first grade Tanzanian coffee. The fields are filled with laughter and singing, as it is harvest time and locals are picking the beans, across the array of green you can make out the colorful headscarves of the women peaking over the top. For each bag filled they will make 1k shillings – the equivalent to $ .75.
Following the plantation, we visit the Marceli mixed farm, which was the first in the area and where he has been certified since the 80’s. The farm produces food for the family and provides demonstration lots to villagers in order to create more food and efficiencies in the community. They harvest fruits – bananas, mangos, passionfruit, lemons, papayas and vegetables – yams, sweet potatoes, tomatoes, cabbage and avocados. In addition, they have 4 fish farms with close to a 1000 fish, cows, chickens, goats and 3 pigs. The fruit and vegetable are free range and organice – creating the sweetest passionfruit and lemons the size of softballs. We gather ingredients for dinner – yams, fish and cabbage and head back for lunch.
After lunch, we visit the local primary school which recently has been refurbished with the help of an American group from LA. They have built 4 classrooms, including a kindergarden and teacher accommodations. It is a great facility with the hopes of attracting even better teachers. Their playground is a beautiful field where they play soccer among the mountains and the cows.
It is 5pm and it is time for the ceremonial dance, where all the villagers come together at the Marceli’s to do a traditional dance. It is saved for special occasions and when guests are here. In Tanzania, it is considered a blessing for the house to have a guest, so they thank the guest by performing a dance done by both women and men. It is only drums but the music created as it is done by jewelry, beads worn on the neck and singing. It is beautiful to say the least. I am asked to join and reluctantly I go – I do have two left feet as my brother can attest too – but as I can’t say no. To my surprise I am given the ceremonial beads to wear and are given them in a rather ritualistic way. The dance is hilarious, as it is jumping up and down towards the men, stepping forward and around in a circle – I still seem to lack coordination! Being this welcome is overwhelming and brings to tears as a village sings on and children clap. It is the simple threads that brings us all together – isn’t it?
After the dance, we bravely forge in to the woods to harvest honey. They keep killer bee hives who produce the sweetest honey we have ever tasted. This is only done at night when the bees are sleeping – SCARY. We walk in the dark – minimal torches – guided by the moon (and of course Alfred who I am practically walking on top of). The stars are bright and there are fields of fireflies lighting up the way. To harvest honey, you literally smoke the bees out – no thanks – I stand as far away as possible and hope for the best. There are 5 of the men who are laughing while they pull out honeycombe and swat the bees from their clothes – it is all rather petrifying and I am glad after an hour it ends. The guys use no suits, nothing and even as they taste the sweetest, they are stung several times in the mouth – ouch. Now here is an outstanding business proposition – Organic, Free range, KILLER BEE honey (isn’t Waitrose jealous) and by the way we are enjoying every morning!
Back home for dinner – all the food Martina and I have prepared – all delicious – of course ☺. A great day in the village of Dareda, where the people share what they have, love each other and dinner with your family - remind us all what life is about. As I said, a slice of heaven………..
No comments:
Post a Comment